SELF-LOCKING JOINT – PRUSIK
Self-tightening knots are tied with a rope. They grip very tightly under load, and when they are relaxed, they can be moved on it. Prusik is one of the types of such a knot. It can be tied to a rope and belayed while descending, or used to climb up.
1 We make a loop from the rope, which we wrap around the rope. Put the ends of the line through the eyelet
2 Loosen the knot loop around the red rope and pass it through the eyelet at the end of the yellow rope again, like the first time.
3 Pulling the ends of the rope, tighten the knot on the rope. All turns should be even, they cannot overlap with each other.
4 To increase the friction force against the rope, you can multiply the number of turns by moving the ends and repeating the steps shown in points 2 i 3.
It is made of steel, but more often from duralumin, it is shaped like an ear with a latch. It allows you to quickly connect ropes with each other, loops or suspend equipment. With their help, pass-through belay points are established. The screwed carabiner has a notched nut on the movable arm, additional protection against self-opening. Such carabiners take longer to close, but they are safer; they are used for belaying while descending a rope and in other dangerous situations.
Screw-lock carabiner – Use it then, when you need to connect securely with the rope, for example when belaying or sliding down the rope.
Climbing up the rope, called Prusikowanie from the self-tightening knot, allows you to get out of heavy oppressions in the wall. To be able to prusicize, you must have two short lines or tapes, harness and belt and safety rope. If we don't have a special harness and belt, we can make them from loops worn around the thighs and tied at the waist with a double bumper knot, also called fishing.
1 Tie the rope coming from the harness to the safety rope hanging from the top with the Prusik A. Below, tie a Prusik from the second rope with the rope. Make a loop at the end of it, the so-called. stirrup and slide your foot into it.
2 The technique of moving up the rope is this, so that by straightening the leg in the stirrup, push yourself upwards. While straightening, we load the Prusik B, which tightens on the rope, therefore we can stand in the loop and loosen the Prusik A.. Move the lightened Prusik A upwards, as high as possible.
3 After pulling up the Prusik A, we slowly lower ourselves, returning to the previous position.
Sitting in a harness, it hangs on the green cord, then Prusik A is loaded, therefore it tightens on the rope. By stretching the safety rope and curling the knee, you can move the prusik B. The stirrup will go higher, and after straightening the leg we will move up again.